Discussion:
brace on CA20 EFI
(too old to reply)
J Burns
2013-12-07 18:30:07 UTC
Permalink
I have a 1984 Nissan Stanza. For years, it has sometimes taken more
than one turn of the key to energize the starter. I don't know how to
get to the switch contacts.

Just in case the key switch won't work one day, I've put a terminal on
five feet of wire so I can connect the terminal to the solenoid and
touch the wire to the battery.

It works, but I have to remove an engine brace to get my hand to the
solenoid. The vertical brace weighs more than 2 pounds. I use a 14mm
socket to remove the screw holding it on the transaxle and a 13mm socket
to remove two nuts holding it to the intake manifold.

When I remove the brace, is it necessary to replace it? What's it for?
willshak
2013-12-07 23:24:08 UTC
Permalink
Post by J Burns
I have a 1984 Nissan Stanza. For years, it has sometimes taken more
than one turn of the key to energize the starter. I don't know how to
get to the switch contacts.
Just in case the key switch won't work one day, I've put a terminal on
five feet of wire so I can connect the terminal to the solenoid and
touch the wire to the battery.
It works, but I have to remove an engine brace to get my hand to the
solenoid. The vertical brace weighs more than 2 pounds. I use a 14mm
socket to remove the screw holding it on the transaxle and a 13mm socket
to remove two nuts holding it to the intake manifold.
When I remove the brace, is it necessary to replace it? What's it for?
To hold the fenders on.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @
J Burns
2013-12-08 00:17:00 UTC
Permalink
Post by willshak
Post by J Burns
I have a 1984 Nissan Stanza. For years, it has sometimes taken more
than one turn of the key to energize the starter. I don't know how to
get to the switch contacts.
Just in case the key switch won't work one day, I've put a terminal on
five feet of wire so I can connect the terminal to the solenoid and
touch the wire to the battery.
It works, but I have to remove an engine brace to get my hand to the
solenoid. The vertical brace weighs more than 2 pounds. I use a 14mm
socket to remove the screw holding it on the transaxle and a 13mm
socket to remove two nuts holding it to the intake manifold.
When I remove the brace, is it necessary to replace it? What's it for?
To hold the fenders on.
It's not attached to a fender. It's vertical, about the midline of the
car, connecting the transaxle to the intake manifold. Everything felt
solid without it. I started the engine and didn't see anything wrong,
but I wonder why Nissan would have used such a heavy brace if it's not
necessary.
willshak
2013-12-08 00:52:19 UTC
Permalink
Post by J Burns
Post by willshak
Post by J Burns
I have a 1984 Nissan Stanza. For years, it has sometimes taken more
than one turn of the key to energize the starter. I don't know how to
get to the switch contacts.
Just in case the key switch won't work one day, I've put a terminal on
five feet of wire so I can connect the terminal to the solenoid and
touch the wire to the battery.
It works, but I have to remove an engine brace to get my hand to the
solenoid. The vertical brace weighs more than 2 pounds. I use a 14mm
socket to remove the screw holding it on the transaxle and a 13mm
socket to remove two nuts holding it to the intake manifold.
When I remove the brace, is it necessary to replace it? What's it for?
To hold the fenders on.
It's not attached to a fender. It's vertical, about the midline of the
car, connecting the transaxle to the intake manifold. Everything felt
solid without it. I started the engine and didn't see anything wrong,
but I wonder why Nissan would have used such a heavy brace if it's not
necessary.
Well, it's holding something on, or together. Check with a Nissan repair
shop.
--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @
Geoff Welsh
2013-12-08 21:48:41 UTC
Permalink
Post by willshak
I have a 1984 Nissan Stanza. For years, it has sometimes taken
more than one turn of the key to energize the starter...., but I
have to remove an engine brace to get my hand to the solenoid.
....
When I remove the brace, is it necessary to replace it? What's it
for?
To hold the fenders on.
It's not attached to a fender. It's vertical, about the midline of
the car, connecting the transaxle to the intake manifold. Everything
felt solid without it. I started the engine and didn't see anything
wrong, but I wonder why Nissan would have used such a heavy brace if
it's not necessary.
If it's what I'm thinking of, it is a support brace for the intake
manifold. Without it, under varying hot/cold driving/vibration
conditions, the intake manifold gasket will fail much sooner than it
otherwise (never) would.

GW
J Burns
2013-12-09 00:30:23 UTC
Permalink
Post by Geoff Welsh
Post by willshak
I have a 1984 Nissan Stanza. For years, it has sometimes taken
more than one turn of the key to energize the starter...., but I
have to remove an engine brace to get my hand to the solenoid.
....
When I remove the brace, is it necessary to replace it? What's it
for?
To hold the fenders on.
It's not attached to a fender. It's vertical, about the midline of
the car, connecting the transaxle to the intake manifold. Everything
felt solid without it. I started the engine and didn't see anything
wrong, but I wonder why Nissan would have used such a heavy brace if
it's not necessary.
If it's what I'm thinking of, it is a support brace for the intake
manifold. Without it, under varying hot/cold driving/vibration
conditions, the intake manifold gasket will fail much sooner than it
otherwise (never) would.
GW
Thank you.

Wrecker Jim
2013-12-08 05:55:07 UTC
Permalink
Post by J Burns
I have a 1984 Nissan Stanza. For years, it has sometimes taken more
than one turn of the key to energize the starter. I don't know how to
get to the switch contacts.
Just in case the key switch won't work one day, I've put a terminal on
five feet of wire so I can connect the terminal to the solenoid and
touch the wire to the battery.
It works, but I have to remove an engine brace to get my hand to the
solenoid. The vertical brace weighs more than 2 pounds. I use a 14mm
socket to remove the screw holding it on the transaxle and a 13mm socket
to remove two nuts holding it to the intake manifold.
When I remove the brace, is it necessary to replace it? What's it for?
Wouldn't it be better to leave the wire in place? you could wire it to a
push-button and then to the battery (maybe through a fuse if you were going
to do things properly. Then on the times when the key didn't work you could
just press the button - got to be good on a rainy day.
J Burns
2013-12-08 18:42:49 UTC
Permalink
Post by Wrecker Jim
Post by J Burns
I have a 1984 Nissan Stanza. For years, it has sometimes taken more
than one turn of the key to energize the starter. I don't know how to
get to the switch contacts.
Just in case the key switch won't work one day, I've put a terminal on
five feet of wire so I can connect the terminal to the solenoid and
touch the wire to the battery.
It works, but I have to remove an engine brace to get my hand to the
solenoid. The vertical brace weighs more than 2 pounds. I use a 14mm
socket to remove the screw holding it on the transaxle and a 13mm socket
to remove two nuts holding it to the intake manifold.
When I remove the brace, is it necessary to replace it? What's it for?
Wouldn't it be better to leave the wire in place? you could wire it to a
push-button and then to the battery (maybe through a fuse if you were going
to do things properly. Then on the times when the key didn't work you could
just press the button - got to be good on a rainy day.
That was my original plan. I've gotten sturdy, reliable connections
with live-spring wire nuts. But there's no slack between the harness
and the ignition switch.

In that case, I thought I might use quick splices to tap into the
battery and starter circuits without cutting the wires. I'd want to
know what gauge wires I was working with, to get quick splices to fit.
I have the Nissan service manual and the Haynes manual. I can't find
any mention of gauges in either.

The circuit appears to be fused only by the fusible link at the battery.
Solenoid resistance is under an ohm, so current would be over 12
amps... but it might not be. For the first instant, inductive reactance
would limit current. Then, when the solenoid went home, one of the
coils would be cut out, reducing current. I can get a 10A, 120VAC
momentary pushbutton. That would probably be adequate, but I don't know.

A couple of times when the problem has gotten bad, I've fixed it
temporarily by disconnecting the battery ground, disconnecting the wire
from the solenoid, and connecting an ohmmeter between the wire and the
positive terminal of the battery. I'd spray contact cleaner into an
opening at the back of the switch lock and work the switch until I had
zero ohms.

I've noticed something strange. I have a manual transmission.
According to wiring diagrams, there's nothing connected to the wire
except the solenoid at one end and the switch terminal at the other.
Instead of infinite ohms with the switch not on "start," I get 24 ohms.
It seems as if there must be a relay coil that not on the wiring
diagrams. Hmmmm... I guess I'll remove the brace, disconnect the wire,
turn the key, and listen for a click. If I hire a 5-year-old to reach
in and remove the wire, I won't have to remove the brace!

When I had trouble with my turn switch, it was hardened lubricant on the
contacts. Maybe there's nothing wrong with the start switch except
hardened lubricant. Maybe a shot of oil like WD-40 would be the solution.
Loading...